![]() ![]() If extension is a concern, but some self-equalization is considered necessary, then tying extension limiting knots on either side of the X is the best choice. Extension limiting knot (on left)Įxtension limiting knots: This variation on the Sliding-X will reduce the potential fall factor. While extremely strong (>30kN), the possibility of extension is the biggest reason for not using it. ![]() While true “self-equalization” has been shown to be a myth ( ), more importantly, the Sliding-X can extend and create a fall factor if one anchor point fails. The Sliding-X is redundant and “self-equalizing”, meaning it can distribute the force evenly if the direction of force changes (e.g. This configuration prevents the carabiner from sliding off the end of the sling in the event of an anchor point failure. A carabiner is then clipped into this loop and the bottom strand of the sling. The top strand of the sling is then twisted into a loop. The X is created by connecting the sling to two anchor points. The Sliding-X is a classic technique, but largely out of fashion these days. The anchor points only have to be a reasonable distance from eachother ( In the context of two unlinked anchor points, there are a myriad of ways to solve a given situation. Since the ACQ is composed of a standard 60cm sling, its uses are highly versatile. I had my doubts as to whether a 60cm sling would be sufficiently long enough, but the adapted technique is all that is needed. The goal of the ACQ would not be to reduce rope drag, but to create a central point between two unlinked anchors. The Alpine Canyon Quickdraw (ACQ) would be composed of a 60cm dyneema sling and two locking, mini-HMS carabiners. Looking at the Alpine Quickdraw, I wondered if the idea could be adapted to a canyoning context. The real beauty of this kit is the way climbers shorten and lengthen the quickdraw (see video below). Normally, it consists of a 60cm sling and two snap-gate carabiners. Its function is to act as a normal length quickdraw, and when needed, it can be extended to reduce rope drag. The Alpine Quickdraw is used mostly by trad climbers. Aimlessly searching through the internet, I eventually came across a technique I had long since overlooked: the Alpine Quickdraw. As well, what if the rappel had a big swing in it? How do you equalize that? Lastly, and most importantly for me, it was a damn clunky piece of kit.Ĭonsidering Ben’s solution and Ross and I’s lackluster T-Quickdraw, neither was a desirable solution. For one, the semi-static rope anchor would bounce, increasing rope rub. I’ll admit it was effective and safer, but it wasn’t ideal for me. The new school was using this piece of rope to make bolts redundant and equalized. He would clip this piece of rope to two points, and then he’d tie a master point. He asked me why I still used my Canyon Quickdraw? It was old school. He used this rope for everything, from extending his cowstail to the anchor, to equalizing two bolts. A good friend, Benjamin Buchy, was the first to show me in 2013 a ~1.5 metre piece of semi-static rope with two figure-8s at each end (Side note* Ben has an excellent blog at ). Some french professionals have already been facing this problem. Redundancy alone is inadequate in these scenarios. Why keep using the quickdraw at all? Sure it’s quick to make two bolts redundant, but what about equalizing? If one point breaks under load x, the other point might receive load x + a Fall Factor. Laurent’s question was the icing on the cake to a number of debates I had with other great canyoneers. Shoulder length) 8mm tubular 100% Dynex runner that’s light, abrasion-resistant and absorbs less water than nylon, the MiniWire is ideal for mountain missions when light is right.Part I of my blogpost “ The Canyon Quickdraw“, I ended with a question that Laurent Poublan, Head Training Master at ICOpro, had asked me: Could I think of a way to use a quickdraw to create a central point between two unlinked anchors? Using a quickdraw, is there a way to create a Master Point between two bolts? His question was largely directed at Ross and my’s T-Quickdraw experiment, and quite simply, the T-Quickdraw was weak at solving this problem. Featuring two new MiniWire carabiners, which are the lightest, fully-functional carabiner in the Black Diamond line-up and a 60 cm (ie. Built to provide essential protection on ice, alpine and trad routes that demand a light and fast style, the Black Diamond MiniWire Alpine Quickdraw is a multi-functional biner-and-runner combo that is usable either in standard quickdraw configuration or fully extended. ![]()
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